Though it shall be weird that I won't be spending my usual morning (3am-9am-ish) after Thanksgiving out bargain hunting and wrecking into donut shop signs, and of course, still be angry at people for putting up Christmas decorations so early, I don't have to go through that trouble here.  Christmas decorations have been up solidly for about two weeks, though by American terms this is slightly troubling, as I would wonder if there are some Xmasophiles in the neighborhood.  However, the Dutch "santa claus" is already in town, setting up shop, renting space, and filing the correct non-profit tax forms for his big giveaway and travels on December 5th.  Yes people, Sinterklas is in town, and yes,he has all the kids excited and the kruidnoten en pepernoten spread around.

So at approximately 12 on Sunday he came. He came via boat, the Spanje, as the saying goes he sails in from Spain, and I said to my Spanish friend sitting next to me, "You know that your ancestors' expansive, imperialistic policies of the 16th Century are greatly allowing the Dutch people here to have a great time."  Point noted.  So he got off and spent some time perusing the Scheepvaart Museum which, I must say, would of been a great time to be an unexpecting tourist who gets a face full of a bearded man in a red robe.  (I could of sworn it was still November?!).  Seeing the sheer awe struck in the little kids' faces was great, they were all smiling, all yelling, and all decked out in their Zwarte Piet and ecclesiastical headgear.  Then, about an hour and some crazy bass/techno Dutch beats  later, the official parade came by.  It had tractors, cookies, screaming kids, bands, people pretending to be helpers/slaves/Africans/chimney climbers/racists/Pieten depending on your ideological and anthropological viewpoint.  These people wear satiny looking outfits from the 16th century with their faces blackened. They handed out the gingery kruidnoten and anise-flavored pepernoten by the bag full.  All the kids just sat there with their hands out screaming," Piet!!!Piet!!! Kandij Piet!!!" And of course, the "Piet" would come on by with either a bag or butterfly net full of noten or candy to plop into their hands. 

(To the left is a Pieten Band).  These guys are everywhere and on everything.  Bikes, bikes with 2 different sized wheels, wheelchairs, boats, mopeds, skates, carriages, horses, smartcars, firetrucks, their own feet, its like a caravan of nonstop helpers.  Instead of the secretive, "north pole" style of our Santa, Sinterklas runs a pretty transparent operation in the stylish and warm vacation haven of Spain.  He personally comes and scouts out the locale early to plan the most efficient routes, and with an ever-changing city, its helpful to be here early.  Our guy comes once, spending no pre-planning time, and has a base of operations in the far-removed non-Schengen region of the North Pole.....Santa needs to sit in on a holiday idol lecture.  Well anyways, after a parade that left the streets littered with Sinterklas vlaggen and all sorts of crushed cookies, though a lot made it into the mouths of hungry kids....I may or may not of had a few off the A'dam streets.....After this it was off to hear Sinterklas en Co. in Dam Square where it was a Pietfeest, full of blackened faces and Dutch Sinterklas songs that I just couldn't grasp.  Everyone would be just standing around, talking, staring, and all of a sudden this music would come on and everyone would start bobbing up and down or waiving their hands for a short time.  It was random holiday Dutch dancing, and my western Atlantic mind just couldn't quite get it.  After some songs, some Piet dancing, and a speech by the burgermeester  it was back to showing off Sinterklas's highly efficient and Pieten parade.  (Unfortunately I could not at all capture any of this, as my camera decided to lose power, where's this wireless charging we've been promised?).

All the lights are up.  Every street has its own theme.  For the Dappermarkt it has wreaths and its own name, for Albert Cuypmarkt its diamond shaped icicles, the Kalverstraat has its presents and swirly wintry whisps, and the Negen straatjes has, well, a nine and a blue rectangle.  Not winning any creativity awards there, but they're too the point, and I respect that.  Typically it severely annoys me when people put up anything resembling holiday lights before December 1.  But here is nice, especially on the straatjes down on Berenstraat  and Nieuwespiegelstraat.  They look gorgeous, and look like its raining artificial light from the middle of the streets.  It brightens everything up, and is really itching at me to bring out the "I'll be Home for Christmas" by Sinatra (my favorite Christmas song, and coincidentally true).  Taken out of the Christmasy context, the lights are very nice, and definitely make the whole Kalverstraat-toeristen things a little more bearable.

Believe it or not, this country isn't all flat.  There are actually things resembling hills, and one of the most beautiful places to experience this at was on Texel Eiland.  Its the beginning and southern most island of the Waddenzee island chain.  It took an hour and twenty minute train ride and a quick stop in Den Helder to catch the ferry, but was so very worth it.  The entire island has three very distinct geographies, from flat pasture with the Dutch sheep (a very common site), to hilly, sandy dunes (which are along the outside of the island, very helpful for navigation), and pure white sand beaches that stretch along the Nordzee.  It is the most changing and quietest places I had ever been, and nothing beat biking through the national forest with only the stars and bike lights to guide you on the leaf-strewn path.  Smelling the salty, and gloriously clean air was unique, and seeing a land that is endangered from climate change that might not be there in 20 years was especially heartening.  I'd retire here too, so it looks like when I get into my 70s I'm going to have some major thinking to do.

Me and a few friends decided to take the day-trip, though we could of easily of made it into a weekend excursion.  Upon arriving we set off from 't Horntje into the great beyond.  We saw the "towns" of Den Burg, Den Hoorn, en Den Koog.  I'd say Den Koog was the most intriguing.  Everything is in either Dutch or German, and the houses are fantastic.  It was dead when we got there, but a local, cheery bartender told us that the Germans love the spot.  Because one must pay to use beaches in Germany or Denmark, and in the Netherlands it is free, they flock here like crazy to dig their holes.  Also, it was quite interesting to walk among the dunes and see little plots of leveled land that were no bigger than a backyard shed.  Apparently people rent these during spring and summer, and put up a little shed-like cabin to sleep in and use as a vacation/weekend getaway.  The dunes are all-natural, and the island, besides the infrastructure, is left up to its own devices.  No changing, no saving, no poldering, just an island and water.  Because of these people's obsession with reclaiming land from the seas, it was very breathtaking and amazing to realize that I was only an hour away from A'dam.

This next event also merits extreme attention.  Museumnacht 2011. With 45 museums participating with over 226 events, it was a night full of awesomeness.  The museums opened at 630 and stayed open until the classy hour of 2am, with a bunch of after-parties and dance-events.  (Thing to left is the lightbox that distinguished what was a museum--I was completely unaware that there were so many on my normal commute route!).  This day was a five month day in waiting.  I love museums, and with everything open and free on one day, I couldn't help but be overly joyed.  By starting at the Scheepvart Museum with a fantastic light and sound show, it was a great way to start the night.

One would be surprised at the efficiency when you release me with 35,000 other museum-goers biking everywhere very quickly on tight itineraries.  (Below is a slide show of that break-neck efficiency, but without degradation of the educational value!!!).  Let's see, the Tattoo Museum was by far the best museum of the night, with all sorts of ancient artifacts, weird pictures, and the fact that they were having a hoe-down out back.  Second place goes to the Scheepvart Museum.  All I can say is: Aaron could never live on a ship but would love to do the woodworking.  The bronze would go to the Hollandsche Schouwburg which used to be a theater, then turned into a Jewish deportation center in WWII.  They new building is a museum, but the old bombed out one is behind, with a very moving garden and statue with wooden tulips.  At one point you can stand on the 3rd floor, see the blueprints of the old theater, and look at the current stripped down shell of it.  It was a night that was months in the making, and now, is a memory that I won't soon forget.

I love food. Yes, its imperative that we eat, but it never hurts to indulge once in a while (or whenever you bike past a bakery).  So, I dedicate this entire post, these words, to the glory that is food, the cuisine I have found to be spectacular, and of course I can only sum up the places where I've tried out my palate!
APPELTAART
This one is close, almost too close to call.  Either or is a win, but I think I give the slight edge to Winkel up there on Noodermarkt. They are renowned for their taart, and for good reason.  Its cinnamon flavored apples in a half baked (still doughy) pie with a crusty, delicious exterior.  With a large dollop of homeade slagroom you have a slice of heaven.  The line is always out the door, the pies are always fresh, and its in a prime locale to just watch people sort through cheese and clothing.  But, it you want a low-key spot, Cafe Papeneiland is a nice substitute.  I would argue that their slagroom is just beats Winkel's, a little creamier, a little thicker, but they have less crust, and not as much "doughy" pie that I crave.  So this one needs further review, something I intend to finalize. (Below on the right and middle is Winkel and on the left is a slice from Papeneiland.

DESSERT
Now this was for a while a very troubling and difficult one to decide upon.  But, after a short walk one day on a road that I typically bike, it was all but solved.  A little place called Holtkamp possibly has the best pastries, cakes, and chocolates in the entire city.  It's frequented by the queen, who likes the plain double chocolate cake (which is always sold out).  But their pies/specialty cakes are where the magic is.  Everything from chocolate mousse tarts to champagne-chocolate covered monstrosities, to a cake that looks like it's having an allergic reaction (bumps and bubbles...not itching and runny nose).  My favorite this far (besides a below item) is a hazelnut tart that is covered in walnuts and buttercream icing.  Can anyone say a 2 inch high by 4 inch long buttercream covered hazelnut bar isn't perfection?

STROOPWAFEL
This culinary delicacy is everywhere.  Everyone has "this or that" stroopwafel, stroopwafel with little stroop cookies, cookies with little stroop wafels, and whatever. But That Guy on Albert Cuypstraat as I like to call him has the best.  He makes and rolls the dough right in front of you and produces a warm, small plate sized wafel that is bending in your hand as you eat it because it's so fresh and warm.  Its crumbly, gooey, and you can even have it dipped in chocolate.  Only 1.50 Euros, so very close, and caramel filling---count me in.
MORNING PICK ME UP
Lanskroon.  These ladies know what's up.  They're always cheery, friendly, and will play along with your sometimes incoherent and drooling Dutch. They're known for their stroopwafels, but their relatively inexpensive, diverse, and delicious menu encompasses all that one needs to go to EU Law for 8 weeks straight. Personally, I find their poppyseed turnovers, espresso coffee, and hapjeswafels to be their best.

PANNEKOEKEN
This one is not too close to call, it's to SOON to call.  Pancakes Pancakes everywhere and I don't know what to choose! I'd have to say that my favorite pancake (the pancakey part) must go to Pancakes! op Berenstraat.  It's done thick, crispy, and has a unique texture that is socially acceptable and filling enough to eat alone.  But, my other place, Pannekoeken Upstairs has much better and interesting toppings.  Plus, the atmosphere is found no where else in the world, and has much quicker serve-time.  The guy is a pancake god.  After more investigation I shall confirm the executive decision here. (the "bali" with banana, cream, coconut, and banana liquor vs. cardamom, chicory, ham, and rasberry sauce)

PATAT FRITES
By a far margin, in fact, probably the biggest here, VleminckX de Sausmeesters win this.  Double fried, hand cut potato fries that crunch on the outside and are soft patat in the middle.  Then with about 20 different sauces to choose from, (especially the Zeeuwse mayonnaise). There is always a line, and seeing that most of these are locals, its ought to be good, and trust me, for 3 Euros you can be happy for quite a long time.  I recently went to Belgium and had their fries, but the stall on Voetboogsteeg has the Belgians beat at their own game.

CHEESE
I have two categories here.  First, my favorite market cheese dealer is Johan Kaas on Albert Cuypstraat.  Yea the guy right before him has free samples, but is always angry and won't cut huge chunks up for you in case you hadn't felt like buying 300g of Maasdammer Kaas. Johan cuts, slices, and dices it up for you, his Boeren Kaas is creamy and soft, and its always on sale.  He's a great guy with some great cheese, what can you say? Nextly, I really enjoy a cheese from Kaashuis Tromp op Utrechtstraat.  They have everything, but their black truffel cheese is simply to die for.  Its so perfect that I'm not sure you actually do anything with it, besides eat it plain.  It's sample galore around this place, and is a cheesy site to see.

BREAD
Simon Meijssen wins this one, though mainly because there are too many bread places to try, and not enough room in the stomach to do them all.  But this place is local, has a few locations, and is a quick trip down Albert Cuypstraat. Though  the morning crew is always a little testy with me, anything on the rack behind them will make up for it.  Friesroggebrood is simply delicious, its raisiny, somehow crunchy, and a great morning treat.  Then there's their croissants, the meegranen is probably the best multi-grain thing I've ever had, and don't even get me started on their corn-rolls and rozijn brolletjes.

DONER KEBAB
The fact that this place lies not 20m from my apartment is dangerous.  Doner kebab is on every street corner, they are like an infection that has spread all across Middle Europe.  All it is is lamb, lettuce, tzatziki sauce on a bun.  Or inside a piece of flat bread that resembles a tortilla, only drier and flakier.  However, this place gets on the list not because of sheer geographic proximity, but because it is so damn good.  Regardless of the hour, people are waiting in line, and I've seen it go halfway down the block to the grocery store.  Once you get in, it's quick, and typically you get the joy of the employees take no enjoyment out of their job, they throw food around, throw knives to each other, and generally just don't care.  But their spic lamb is sooooo good, and for only 3.50 Euros you get a whole Turkish pizza that rivals the Doner capital of Berlin.

FRIED THING---AND PLACE TO GET IT
I love kroketten. They are typically some mysterious ragout mixed in with some type of mysterious meat.  They are a popular snack item that can be found at any self-dispensing FEBO. If I'm really hungry and want a cheap snack, I'll go there.  But my Monday ritual takes me to Holkamp.  The Queen's favorite bakkerij may be dishing out delicious taarten, speculoos, en chocoladen, but their crown-royale is their garnalen kroket. It's filled with garnalen (shrimp, though you can get just cheese or lamb) and deep fried in homeade batter.  Its just that right bit of crunch to hold in the steamy spiced ragout that makes the start of the week all the more better.  Paired with a usual slice of taart and I'm in heaven.  Oh and it helps that these have been called the best kroketten in all of Holland, and that means, the world.

TO ALL THOSE HATERS
The Dutch do know what's going on.  They have quite the cuisine, and I'd be hard pressed to find a better place than right here for bread, cheese, and speculoos. Not to mention a good old koffieverkeerd en warme chocolademelk.  Will I bring home some A'dam with me on the plane that security can't take away? Most definitely, but part of the immersion experience is ingesting some of it!

It's that time of the year again, tests, papers, extra things that just bug the hell out of you.  But, doing it in a different city is very nice.  Fall is truly upon us, it gets almost to freezing, and let me tell you, coming from Pittsburgh certainly helps where wind is always moving over water.  Those SoCal people however....The thing I love the most though, is when going out in the morning, or late at night after the boats have been docked up for the night.  The water is completely still, and the ducks are all asleep, and there is a beautiful reflection of all the 17th century buildings.  It really is something to see, and a sight that is practically endless in this city. 

Fortunately I had the chance to climb the narrow, bell-filled cavity of Westerkerk to see an entire 360 degree view of the entire city, and the faint glimmer of Utrecht.  Bells from before the true settling of America? A king's etching in the wood planks? Yea very cool.  Not to mention that the entire thing is at a very nice lean west and is built on a "sliding frame" that is meant to absorb the vibrations of the giant. truck sized bells that get played from time to time.   To see the city from many meters up was breath taking, and nothing says "hello" like freezing fall wind in one's face.  But trust me, with what I was seeing, the weather was the least thing on my mind!

I must comment on this, that throughout this busy two weeks, full of midterm cramming and being highly efficient in getting stuff wrapped up, I managed to cross a lot of things off the list.  First, I had a Dutch pizza, which is really just cheese, mushrooms, and ham on paper-like crust, its good, but I really could of used an appetizer to fill me up.  Not nearly as good as Dutch stamppot of hutspot, which consist of mashed potatoes, saurkraut, endive, carrots, and always accompanied by a nice big stuk of rookworst. They say Dutch cuisine isn't very expansive or world class, but hell, give me a plate of mashed potatoes and meat and my inner Pollack goes wild.

I can also say that I ate Indonesian, Ethiopian, Japanese, and Turkish too all in one week.  Talk about being multicultural! There is just a crazy amount of ethnic places to go around (plus the ethnic ladies in the windows down on Ruysdaelskade).  This melting pot (yes lots of fondue here) is wonderful for me, you never know who you'll be talking to, and thus, helping to try and get them to the nearest tourist spot.  Let's see, in my time here I've helped French, Dutch, Russian, Belgian, American, Canadian, and Taiwanese people get around.  I mean I don't have blond hair, don't slick it back in the Duthc style, am not at all tall, and my Dutch is sub-par. Maybe its some boyish, innocent charm I have, or maybe its my bright green monstrosity that I ride around that alerts people to my presence.  I really don't care though, makes me feel needed and real good that I can get people to where they need to be, and that I may leave them with a little memory that not all Americans are pompous, unhelpful idiots (though those British visitors are much, much worse, see we've been put in our place, but they are always too drunk to realize what is going on).

Well, its off to Brugge, or Bruges if you're French.  It's a nice little UNESCO Heritage site that is still stuck in the 1200s.  After the hell-week that I've had, its much needed.  I can't wait to dig into wafels, praline-chocoladen, en poules moules, not to mention a nice dose of Vlammse brew.  I think that Belgium may be the perfect place for me on paper, but Amsterdam will always be my home away from home.  No sense getting all sentimental here, I got a great weekend planned, not too mention a national Bokbier festival on Sunday in the middle of OccupyAmsterdam protestors (anti-capitalistic group and seasonal beer, how could this get any better?). I think next week I need to give A'dam its culinary midterm quiz, and I revisit some of the favorites to get updated pics (its hard to take pictures when you're holding an entire bag of patat frites smothered in oorlog saus).  So off to Vlanders, and back to A'dam to finish up October!!

Nothing says good morning at 7:30am on a Saturday like the prospects of going to a farm.  This past weekend that is precisely what I did---dug into my genes and pulled out the dirt-lover inside of me and headed to Meppel for an excellent weekend at Het Blauwe Huis met Henk en Jan Kees.

Of course it rained.  It wouldn't of been a true Holland experience without the ever-falling liquid from the sky.  But, it really did add to the experience on the spice/herb farm.  Upon arrival it was work time and it felt good to get the hand dirty again after a summer of no gardening.  I helped to re-pot, pot, and cover plants for the weekend.  Also, I helped move some plants around for the coming chilly season, and can say I took a little part in helping out quite a unique farm in Northern Netherlands.  Oregano in Berghuizen? Who would of ever of thought it. Luckily I got to work with a local village girl, and we had quite the rousing conversation ranging from our distaste of listening to German, to the ever-prevalent Geert Wilders, to the possibility of me introducing "slakken" into the US. I thought it was real neat to be able to meet and converse with a local girl and to see how a slightly younger age group grows up in Northern Netherlands.I must say I am eternally grateful for Henk and Jan Kees allowing me to see the farm.  They allow curious souls to venture out and experience their work, and I was both enlightened and had some curiosity fed during that weekend that I'll will be ingrained into my memory.  Luckily though, working out on the farm was only the beginning.....

One of my goals here was to get into a Dutch Birthday Party. I've heard many-a-things about them, and I finally got to participate.  Let me put them into perspective: pompoen soep, bacon-thyme-brie-honey pancakes, and a glass of a Northern Dutch liquid called Berenburg on the side.  If one ever has the chance to experience this, please take it, you won't be let down.  The family was a very close with Henk and Jan Kees, and very open to me.  The fascination feeling was mutual.  With quite a swath of ages, I had an entire spectrum of conversations, everything from about Pittsburgh, to my current relationship status, and to the finer points of Amaretto.  When it was time to leave, it was quite hard for me to get out, they didn't want me to go by any stretch of the imagination.  Food, drinks, and bedrooms were offered, but I eventually said by goodbyes and left with a smile on my face.  The big question was whether I was ever going to come back, and after the royal-hospitality and wonderfulness of the entire family I'm glad my Block 2 frees up!

After sleeping in a barn full of spices (which puts one out like a nice NyQuil) it was Day 2.  We had the ritual Sunday morning walk throughout the surrounding area with Henk and Jan Kees' dog Wortel and I got an interesting lecture on the Ice-Age geography and ice-skating friendly lakes that dot the landscape. After the morning walk I went out to see their horses, which are a smaller, Dutchie form of a Clydesdale.  Powerful, yet for the most part very personable horses that can be ridden (like the one on the left here).  After seeing (and getting bitten once by a little guy) it was off to see the local villages.

Naar Giethoorn! Known as the "Little Venice of the North" because of its ample canals, it truly was Amsterdam-rural.  Everyone has a boat, and some homes are only accessible via waterway.  Talk about total isolation! On my way here, I believe in Zwartsluis I found my retirement place.  A little village with reed-roofed homes facing open pastures one way and the little busy center in the middle.  Everything symmetrical and old, it felt like a fairy tale, and definitely great for those who want to GET AWAY.  And one even has a choice, straight and narrow villages, or the circular, contained ones, your choice...what type of dirt and historical farming are you feeling?  Decisions..Decisions.....Retirement plans aside, in Giethoorn me and Jan Kees saw the little canals of the town, and the hilariously high and narrow bridges that lead to everyone's home.  Also, which was of astute interest was to see the reeds that are on people's homes.  It literally looks as though someone took a marsh and dumped it on top of people's houses.  Well, as with anything that happens in the culture, they've made an effective use of their surroundings. 

The reeds are actually harvested, processed, and made into a "poor man's" roof.  When water quality was at its finest they would stay waterproof and unrotten for up to 40 years.  Also, the land surrounding the harvesting area is literally "floating" on top of the water due to the natural movement of dirt, debris, and plants, so its not exactly an easy thing to get together.  After a wonderful tour of the "Venice of the North" it was time to head back, through the rain and lachenvelder filled fields to Het Blauwe Huis.

Who knew that a rainy weekend on a farm could be such a grand time.  And only a 2 hour trip from Amsterdam and one is completely in an entire different place.  Instead of people, cars, and buildings its all cows, tractors, and the inability to move on Sundays (religion is still HUGE up here).  I can say I thoroughly enjoyed myself and on the spoor in Meppel I truly felt that I had an experience that will be with me forever.  I am grateful for the weekend that I was offered, and hopefully the next time I go back won't be for my search for a retirement home.

Now that almost 2 complete weeks of cloudless, warm, and glorious weather, it has come to an end.  I felt the heavens come upon me this eve, and the beautiful, gay weather has moved on.  But, within that time span, I covered countless kilometers, saw many windmills, and yes, shared the experience of klompen maken with Japanese tourists.

Zaandam, a small, green (literally everything, even the grocery store was dressed up in its historical green) and gorgeous town lays right north on the Amstel River.  Me and a good Spanish friend took the almost hour and a half trip north by bike to Zaanse Schans to see some good ol' fashioned Molen.  With liquid blue sky, crystal clear water, and a seemingly endless entourage of Japanese tourists, the day couldn't get much better.  Not too mention the cheese tastery, which I sampled heartedly, and the cleanliness of air made for a perfect time.  It's good for one to get out of the congestion of Amsterdam to get some fresh air and some open road.

I am a big fan of wood working, I've made it all, pool table, fusball table, toilet paper holder, staggered rustic frontier planter, but never footwear.  It is a process that takes under 5 minutes, all starting with a hand split block of wood, put into machines to be shaped and sanded down, then a little hand shaving at the end and "voila" you have yourself some traditional Dutch tree-footwear.  But, me and my friend didn't even catch the demonstration, but knew something was up when we heard "ooooh" and "awhaaaaa" from a crowd of no less than 40 Japanese tourists.  Simply mystified. That's all I have to say about that.  After seeing how Holland's famous footwear was made, it was time to head back, and after a few Aaron twists and turns (who says a straight line is the fastest way home? Using signs? I frown upon that!) we ended the day with some stroopwafel ijs at Metropolitan Deli on Warmoestraat. Very good day, well over 45kms biked, and wij hebben veel klompen gezein.

My biking adventures were well from over.  After an interesting interview with an ex-prostitute (for a research paper of course) and probably the best Bokbier that I will ever have (Texel Brouwerij) it was off to the fishing town of Volendam. I went with my homestay and her son, a fellow future political science phenom like myself with a taste for American politics (no thank you Remco, I'll stick with my frustratingly made IR).  The bike ride was literally on top of water most of the way.  Zee to the right, bedijkte water on the left, boats everywhere, it was straight out of the travel books.  Upon arrival in Volendam, a town known for its: a)fishing, b)singers, and c)welcoming of tourists, I can say I witnessed all three. 

I needed to have some type of zeevruchten.  Needed something. So, after finding the perfect little vis stand I whipped out the Euros for a wonderful Eel sandwich.  Or, a paling broodje as they say in Nederlands. It had a mellow fishy taste (much less than a Nieuwse haring) and had the consistency of Steak Em's.  A definite must if one is presented the opportunity.  But while eating, there were seaside pubs that blared traditional Netherlands tunes that ranged from Amsterdam's  Jordaan sector to fishing songs of the old yore.  Imagine a polka with Dutch, and you have the round-about idea.  Its okay in small doses of no less than 10 minutes and can cause severe brain damage if left unhindered for more than 30 minutes.  It was quite interesting though, as everyone in the bar seemed to be in their 20s.  Can anyone name me the last time they saw 20 year olds listening to gentrified polka music that their great-great grandfathers made up in a modern day bar?  Yea, only in Volendam. After the trip home, we had a nice Dutch meal of patat frites with my first encounter with a frikandel. Um....looks sausage like, with a pepper sort of rubbery texture....probably something the would never be able to make it through customs. 

Busy, busy. busy.  On top of this, lost my Kriek virginity from De Prael beer bar, along with an almond filled piece of gingerbread (gevulde speculass----zeer geweldig). And to top it off, to show why the Dutch are kings of the fryer, had a cherry filled concoction with real cherry sauce and double dipped in sugar.....W O W . A very good week, busy, but so many kms traveled and so many things seen. 

Well, sorry for the lack of Blog updates, but it has been quite the busy week.  National Bier Proeflokaal Weekend (beer tasting at De Prael---6 out of 6, the Willecke is awesome), volunteering at a mid-level school teaching kids English (me..around kids...), and not too mention one exciting weekend around medieval Holland!!

Well where to start, I say the tour of Zutphen, Deventer, and Kampen.  Small, medieval, and cities that say they could practically be in the same millenium as the death of Jesus.  First was Zutphen, the pictures above, it was in central-eastern Holland, and was a major site for trading and fighting, as seen by the huge wall that cut through the middle of the town.  We took a nice quite boat ride through their little stream/canal, and were almost decapitated many a times by low bridges.  The perfect retiree spot, assisted living homes dotted the landscapes as we sailed down a Dutch waterway that had houses with watery backyards....not too mention a neat city square with a cool market, intriguing brewery, and a massive cathedral. Next, to Deventer!!!

Deventer, unlike Zuthpen, was not demolished during WWII and kept many of its medieval buildings.  From the house of the Bishop of Utrecht circa 1100ish, to the main church with the founding well before 1000, to the hoome of the first and true Waalstraat Deventer was everything America is not----old.  Because we went on a relatively gorgeous and lazy Saturday, people were at the restaurants, at the market, or in their homes, one could really feel get the sense of blacksmiths pounding out swords, wagons carrying goods, and people dumping their personal sewage into the streets, (of course their 21st century!).  The image of the city, home of Erasmus, the biggest book market in Europe, and seriously rich off of Hanseatic traders early on is nicely blending the medieval importance of its roots with a very modern society (They had that therapy where those fish eat your dead skin off your feet---the is NEW AGE).  After Deventer, it was a short overnight stop at one very smelly, loud, and hip hostel, and to Kampen, a city situated right on the Ketelmeer and had its own type of ship, the Kogge, and with a surly seaman to narrate the story of his town, and his ship, it made for one hell of an experience.  All I can say is this, old guy with grizzled hands and a worn face who talks like he's choking on soup and starts his story with, "Now we must go back many years," yea, he was the town's designated story-teller, and if would of busted out a Stephen King novel I probably would of lost it.  The man topped the cake.

(the black ship is Kogge) So, after this, the CIEE Americans came home, but all was not finished.  Because their was football to be had.  Me and a good friend, after partaking in some taste testing at De Prael wondered into the Red Light District for some sights, sounds, and another spot.  Well, after many small alleys, scantly dressed females, and some guy asking me if I wanted "good stuff" (I cordially refused) we descended on a bar playing the Giants-Eagles game.  Got a Duvel and sat back, thought the beer was overpriced, it was well worth watching good ol' 'Merican football. 

There is one event however, that I had, until yesterday, deferred until the perfect locale with the most perfect cuisine was researched and selected.  So, alas, my eerste pannekoeken belevenis happened.  Yes, I lost my Dutch Pancake Virginity.  The Pannekoeken Upstairs establishment was the one to have the joy of treating me. Ascending the extremely steep steps (80 degrees at least) and into the squeezed a space no bigger than my apartments living room with the threat of falling pots was worth it.  Call it a, "trial of pancakes."  Luckily 5 of us went, and 5 of us got different things, so obviously we shared, and obviously it was all delicious.  Coconut, banana liquor, chocolate, cherries, cream, tomatoes, more bananas, cheese, and ham all celebrated this triumph of Dutch cuisine.  Yes, with the ability to put almost anything on them, they are a nice substitute for the ingredient laden and syrup covered pancakes of America.  A good weekend? I'd have to say een uitzonderlijk weekend full of traders, pancakes, water, and loads of colorful people and hostels.  Prachtig!!!

Now, the "Green Lantern" has done me well.  We triumphed over weather, bumps, and one partially flat tire, but alas, all is superb.  On Friday, since I have no class, I decided, "lets go for a bike ride." Its much easier to get out of "town" by going about 5 minutes south of de Pijp, in fact, you get right up alongside the Amstel and take one of the most gorgeous, relaxing rides one can take.  In fact, if I ever have lots of money, time, and the opportunity, I am moving here. This wonderful guy just pops out of nowhere when you round a corner:

As you get past this house/windmill, you get nothing but green pastures, sheep, fishermen, and the delicate smell of well fed cattle.  Oh and mansion upon mansion upon mansion-farm.  The dijk or that thing which holds back the water (which, contrary to popular belief is not some 'wall' or brick structure, but are actually some strategically placed dirt mounds) is literally some homes front yards.  There is green everywhere, literally I cannot stress this enough, and I really felt that I had biked hours and hours to get to where I was, but I was not 3km from my apartment. 

I think I am truly assimilated into A'dam culture.  I now frequently swear at blatant tourists, and have rung  my bike's bell more this week than I ever have.  For some reason, the past week was " de week van domme toeristen ." I mean, not everyone can ride a bike fairly well, but at least don't look idiotic during the process.  Anyways, my homestay mom recommended to head south, and luckily, once you get on the trail, its pretty much you, the road, and tons and tons of manure.  The farther one goes, the more rewards you get, and with my habit of going and going, making lefts and rights and lefts again until I am satisfactorily lost, has its benefits, a.k.a Ouderkerk.

Ouderkerk is this quaint, truly Dutch village that makes one feel like you're in Holland.  Everything felt homey, and best of all, the coffee looked super cheap.  The people spoke slightly different from in Amsterdam, which seems to be the generic, English-bastardized version. These people are hardcore Dutch, and let me tell you, I wouldn't mind to join them.  What felt like forever to get there (mainly because I was thoroughly enjoying the ride there) took about 30mins.  So after perusing the small town of Ouderkerk and crossing one bridge about 5 times deciding what to do, I journeyed West to Amstelveen.

This town is a modern, upscale, and 21st century town.  Skyscrapers, paved roads, and one enormous shopping plaza.  it is a very nice foil to the home city of A'dam.  Schipol Airport that hub of Europe, was a short 15 or so kms away, and Haarlem was only 35km, but alas, I had dinner waiting and a very quickly coming thunderstorm the looked quite ominous.  So, I found my way back quickly, still enjoying the wonderful way back, and decided that since this country is so compact, I'll have to fill up the Nalgene, pop in the Zune, pick a destination, and take some twists and turns to get there.

Amsterdam, apart from being very easy to get around in, and generally very crammed, its people love open markets.  From Nieuwmarkt (organic produce) to the Waterlooplein Markt (anything and everything....some seemingly very expensive items for very cheap....stolen? maybe, but who's asking right?) to the all "goedkoep" Dappermarkt, where one can buy an entire package of toilet paper for an Euro, Amsterdammers love markets. And, as it happens to go, I too, enjoy their outside colorfulness.  So below you can get a picturesque taste of the markets, and I'll explain below that!

Well here is my favorite, not only because of its closeness (a few blocks) but because it has a nice mix of everything. You go in one way with a veggie and patat fritas stall and end with a slipper and watch stand.  The great thing is, the road closes, and often times the stands are different from the normal stores that line Albert Cuypstraat.  I love just going out on a sunny (rare) day and taking a gander at what is there.  The produce is awesome, and nothing beats the cheese stands (which are enormously cheaper than a store).  This is where I first had poffertjes, which are half-dollar sized, mini pancakes that are served covered in powder sugar, then given with a nice slice of butter.  Yes, pure, unadulterated butter, definitely not FDA allowed in America.  On this one "straat" one can literally find a full course meal.  From dried fruits, to nuts, to freshly (and in some cases) still alive seafood.  Apparently, if one goes out in an Adidas track suit, you fit in quite well here, as one day, I was shopping for portobello mushroom and potatoes when all I heard was, "meneer, pardon meneer." Of course I looked up, and a bulbous, very well dressed man was talking to me in Nederlands with an extremely French accent.  I gave that, "What? Huh? I can't quite hear you look" and eventually just said, "Sorry meneer, Ik begrijp u niet. Ik spreek slechts een beetje Nederlands." That was that, I guess I've assimilated well.

(To the side was a delicious "Wally's Waffle" of dark chocolate and coconut that I had just-so-happened to pass on Albert Cuypmarkt).  The second favorite markt by far is De Bloemenmarkt.  Now, I am not one for flowers, nee, I think of them as a waste of time, they provide no real sustenance, and thus, we men should give our partners either fruit or veggies when we see them, because you can actually live off that, as opposed to flowers, which you will eventually forget to water and will die.  But, I digress, De Bloemenmarkt is "zeer leuk." The flowers stand are very colorful and smell like any good candle store.  From flowers to go, to sprouts to try and smuggle through customs, they sellall sorts of decorative organics (and smokeable ones as well, but you actually have to grow them yourselves, or just go to any readily available Coffeeshop).

De Bloemenmarkt is right on Singel Centrum, the beginning of the really touristy, action packed area of downtown Amsterdam.  On this street are plenty of tourist gift shops, 2 sample-friendly cheese cellars (with the girls in Dutch outfits to boot) and a pancake restaurant that I need to get to.  I always walk through when  I go by, because the stalls will change, there is no quota to cheese sampling, and I generally think this area is a great time to feel like I'm above those around me (because I actually have a residence card, unlike those tourists.....).

I think one of the hallmarks of this town is its ability to pack all these markets into an area already overflowing with everything else.  De markten have unique times, some open on Sun and Mon only, to some only being open until 1pm.  They are all unique in what they have to offer, and all are unique in their placement and clientele.  But, random "fests" that sprout up from nowhere are what get me.  On Saturday, on my way to Unlimited Delicious (again--tried the Appletaart--American apple pie has nothing on the Dutch version).  I stumbled upon a food festival on Haarlemmerstraat which had everything from Dutch fried goods, to an American BBQ, to probably the freshest, most awesome looking bread ever, to say the least I was tempted.  If I was not going to Unlimited Delicious I would of splurged, but just bought a Kroket (a fried mix on mashed potatoes and non-used meat products) and took in the smells and sunny day.  Random fests, free cheese, and the daily selling of goods, sounds pretty Dutch to me.  Their trading empire may have dissolved in the early 1700s, but they are definitely still trading gods on the streets.

Away from the traffic, the random musicians, crazy museums, and countless pastry places that I have oh so frequented, my American group decided to go to the "farm country" side of The Netherlands, technically "Holland," as it was below the dikes, and therefore, "reclaimed land."  Welcome to the world of Polderville (to see what a polder is, refer to 1st blog post....aka--reclaimed land via the building up of dikes and such).

My group took a wonderful trip up the IJsselmeer (a totally man-made "lake" in the middle of The Netherlands and completely kept as fresh water too!) to the tiny town of Medemblik.  Interestingly enough, the entire area had to be reclaimed from the sea, so the dike that you see to the left was at one time completely submerged.  The Dutch eventually used those iconic windmills to go right ahead and show that water who was boss, and thus reclaimed all the land, called polders.  Now, it is some of the greenest, most fertile land on the planet, and trust me, with the amount of cows, sheep, goats, and horses roaming around, the stuff they are eating is first-class.  The entire city (if you want to call it that) was very quiet, far from the craziness that is Amsterdam.  The houses were in the traditional Dutch size--small, but could actually have yards....prime pieces of real estate if you'd like to see green grass on your property. 

The quaintness and quietness isn't all that comes out of Medemblik.  Apparently at one time, it was supposed to be a big time harbor for Napoleon's Navy, so they built this big harbor, built all these buildings, but got stood up on the date alone, thus ending the night and ruining prom.  Actually, the citizens changed the harbor into a world-class yacht playground and the old navy houses into fantastic low income housing. On our way back, we took a steam train ride to a bustling town of Hoorn, and were feed copious amounts of cheese, bread, meat, bread, bread, and super-dense bread (a true Dutch meal).  All-in-all, a very nice day to feel really Dutch and to see the stark contrast to the city I am living in.

Now comes a part that I may have to later devote an entire post to, and that would be food, but more specifically, PASTRIES. I love dessert, yes, I at times like it too much, but life is short, and what will one more bitterballen (not a dessert, but anyone here will understand) really do to my lower intestine???  Any-hoo, I need to say that the Dutch stroopwafel,(pronounced Str[long 'o']p-vafel people!) a cheerful mix of caramel-honey goodness smashed between two piselle looking wafers is "de lekkerste ding'' that one must try immediately upon getting on Dutch soil. Cover it in Nutella and you may cease to exist.  By far, my favorite bakery is called Lanskroon on Spui (pronounced Spow) and Singel.  Its cheap, cozy, and full of wafel-like delicacies.  Personally the Hopjeswafels (above) were very good, which was two thin vanilla wafers with a caramel-coffee stroop in the middle.  Of course, they have many others, and let me say, their chocolate covered nougat truffles are worth the .80 Euro!!!

There is something about dark-chocolate flavored vanilla pudding and milk chocolate mousse that should probably be illegal.  But, seeing that this is Amsterdam, the crazier it is, the more likely it is to be in a store.  If one wants a good way to take an hour to down a dessert, please go to Unlimited Delicious, and please, try not to order a whole taart, as tempting as it is, one of the little guys will do quite as well!!

So, there it is.  Reclaimed Noordzee water and pastry delights, can't get much better than that.  The fact that one can be in total farm country with a 20 minute bus ride north is truly stunning.  And to think that it all fits on a map the size of my home state is equally as awesome.  Cows and trams; chocolate and cheese; old and new; sea and dry land; it about sums up this country.  They like to have one thing, but never the other side too far away.  All one has to do is walk around to Oude Kerk  to see what I mean. (Let's just say that the notorious Red Light District begins practically on church property, but they were Calvinists, so really what is to hide right?).